We polish concrete. We also tell a lot of people not to — because grind & seal gets them where they need to be for less. Here's how we think about the three floor options and which one fits which space.

What each one actually is

Grind & seal. We grind the slab with 30–80 grit diamonds to remove coatings, adhesive, high spots and contamination, fill cracks, then apply a clear acrylic or urethane sealer. The look is "clean, uniform concrete" with a satin or gloss topcoat. From $2/sq ft.

Polished concrete. Same start, but the grinding continues through progressively finer diamonds — 100, 200, 400, 800, 1500, sometimes 3000 grit — with a lithium densifier applied partway through that chemically hardens the surface. There is no topical coating; the shine is the concrete itself. Stain guard goes on at the end. Quoted per project; it's 1.5–3× the cost of grind & seal depending on the sheen and how much aggregate you want exposed.

Epoxy (and polyaspartic/urethane) coatings. A film — typically 10–30 mils — bonded to a ground slab. Comes in solid colors, flake and metallic. The prep is our part (CSP 2–3 profile); the coating is applied by a coating contractor. Installed cost in the Bay Area runs $4–9/sq ft for quality systems.

Side by side

Grind & seal Polished concrete Epoxy / polyaspartic
Cost (installed) From $2/sq ft Mid–high $4–9/sq ft
Look Clean concrete, satin/gloss sealer Stone-like sheen, matte to mirror Solid color, flake, metallic
Can it peel? Sealer can wear, re-coat every 2–5 yrs No — nothing to peel Yes, if prep or moisture is wrong
Hot-tire pickup (garages) Possible with acrylic; use urethane No Possible with cheap epoxy
Moisture vapor tolerance Good Excellent Poor without a vapor barrier primer
Chemical resistance Fair Fair–good with stain guard Excellent
Slip when wet Fair Fair (add grip in stain guard) Poor unless grit is broadcast
Maintenance Re-seal periodically Dust mop, occasional burnish Clean; recoat when worn
Lifespan 3–7 yrs per seal coat 20+ yrs 7–15 yrs
Turnaround 1–2 days 2–5 days 2–4 days incl. cure

Our recommendation by space

Residential garage. Grind & seal with a urethane sealer for most people. It handles hot tires, resists oil, looks finished, and costs a fraction of epoxy. Choose epoxy/polyaspartic if you want a color or flake look. Full polish is overkill in a garage unless the garage is also a showroom.

Warehouse / distribution. Polished concrete, every time, if the slab is sound. Forklift traffic destroys coatings at the wheel paths; polished concrete has nothing to destroy. The densifier also cuts dusting, which facility managers notice within a week.

Retail, showroom, restaurant dining room. Polished concrete for the look and the maintenance profile. Pick the exposure (cream, salt-and-pepper, or full aggregate) and sheen with a test panel.

Commercial kitchen, brewery floor, auto shop. Epoxy or urethane cement. You need chemical resistance and a coved, seamless surface. We do the prep; the coating contractor does the rest.

Basement, workshop, patio. Grind & seal. Moisture coming up through the slab is common in Bay Area basements and older patios, and a breathable sealer tolerates it where an epoxy film will blister.

The slab decides more than you do

Before we recommend anything we look at the slab: cracks, patches, old adhesive, moisture, how much aggregate is near the surface, whether it was steel-troweled. A slab that's been patched six times will never polish evenly; it will grind & seal fine. A new, hard-troweled warehouse pour is a polishing candidate. An old garage slab with a mastic layer needs the mastic tested before anyone grinds it.

Warranty

We warrant polished and sealed floors for 1–2 years against delamination and polishing defects. Epoxy warranties come from the coating contractor and depend on the system.

Not sure which one you need? Send a photo and the square footage to (628) 222-4876 and we'll tell you — including when the answer is the cheaper option.